malawi 2000


06 August   - 09 August
Karonga - Chilumba - Usisya par Ilala
Lazylazy enjoying the luxury of Mufwa lakeside weirdness, ramping up to begin land operations again for a quick pickup ride through the dusk to Chilumba. We while away the hours at the ferry depot with two German Swiss who are exasperated about the Ilala's awesomely quick itinerary, the ill defined boarding time and don't seem to encouraged by our "well, it's bound to be crazy" take on it.

The guy next to us in the queue has a major button press about fish which passes the hours till about 2am when the vessel starts making satisfying ship noises and starts south. We get rollmats out on the cargo foredeck and hunker down as we head into reasonable swell and wind, the bow occassionally crashing down into the lake. The spray gets heavy in the darkness, LQ's position gets compromised by running water so he retreats. Dawn at a northerly anchorage and then we're treated to the Mountain Phase played backwards at speed, with sweet tea hits from the galley next to the pig collector at the stern.

The Ruarwe stop yields the Mayorka possee who've walked north from Usisya - followed by two of Toby's dogs which become part of our luggage as we go to Usisya. One of the dogs is very shy and very freaked by the ferry action, still recovering from a beach prepared Space Chicken!

Usisya still very chill, naturally, and Tuesday and Wednesday disappear into a blur, highlights including encountering a crocodile lounging on the island I was swimming towards - big staring eye successfully freaking me; a giant ant attacking LQ's pods and a funny afternoon with shroom coffee attack on the lodge personnel. No luck trying to score boabab fruits to make Benjamin-style potion.

 distance this day 0.0 km
 total distance 480.2 km
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